OUGD401 - Lecture notes: Fashion as Photograph

• Nicephore Niepce - 1826 - one of the first photographs
• Louis Deguarre - 1838/9 - student of Niepce

• William Henry Fox Talbot - fixing process - calotype - silver nitrate - 1839/40

• Countess of Castiglione - photographed by Adolphe Braum 1856

• Age of new fashion magazines - first 10yrs of 1900's - photography replaces illustrations in magazines

• Paul Poiret - House of worth - freedom from corsetry

• Edward Steichen - photographs Paul Poiret's designs for 'Art et Decoration' 1911

• Adolf de Mayer - 1920's - Romantic theme was popular in pictorial tradition

• Mid 1930's (modernism) - photographers testing technical capabilities of the camera

• Steichen - switches from traditional to modernism - more abstract - creative lighting

• Photography starts to become magazine front covers

• Surrealist influence - Horst P Horst - photographs costume from Dali's 'Dream of Venus' 1939

• Vogue Vs Harper Bazaar

• Cecil Beaton - 1904-1980
• Photography materialistic lifestyle - the wealthy
• British Vogue & Vanity Fair
• Photographed members of the 'Bright Young Things'
• Celebrity photography - Vivien Leigh for Vogue - Stephen Tennent - Queen Elizabeth - Dramatic Scene

• Lee Miller - photographed by Steichen
• American photographer & fashion model at age 19
• Gets involved in Surrealism
• Goes to Paris 1929 with photographer Man Ray
• Photographed documentary - liberation of concentration

• Louise Dahl Wolf - photographs for Harpers Bazaar - took models outside the studio - works on locations around the world

• 1935 - first colour photography - not extensively used in fashion

• William Klein, 1950 - documentary photographer - got commissioned for fashion

• David Bailey - 1960's popular culture photography - music & Fashion scene - Mick Jagger

• Terence Donovan - fashion spread story by photographs - 'spy drama'

• Brian Duffy

• Awareness created between photographer & model

• Richard Avedon - Vogue 1966 onwards
• Pioneer - really uses sense of reality
• 'In American West' - documentary project

• Helmut Newton - photographs nude - 'power body' 1980's

• Guy Bourdin - Charles Jourdan shoes - cuts away body apart from important bit

• Jamel Shabazz - 'Back in the days' - hip hop scene 1980's New York

• I-D Magazine - straight up photography - normal people

• I-D Vs The Face - No Airbrush

• Juergen Teller - German - photo's for The Face & Vogue - Vivienne Westwood & Marc Jacobs

• Corrine Day - British Fashion photographer - worked for The Face & Vogue - Vogue cover of Kate Moss - credited for the 'waif' look - documentation

• Photoshop - digital image manipulation - graphics edition program - 2003

• Terry Richard - hyper real body through surgery/photoshop
• Nick Knight - Futuristic body

• Fashion blogging - democratises fashion photography - eg/ Tavi Genison - Street style Copenhagen - Company magazine

• Ari Vershus & Ellie Uyttenbrock - Exacitudes